{"id":1260,"date":"2017-08-22T09:00:09","date_gmt":"2017-08-22T08:00:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/medical-humanities\/?p=1260"},"modified":"2017-10-30T13:51:29","modified_gmt":"2017-10-30T12:51:29","slug":"book-review-the-new-mountaineer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/medical-humanities\/2017\/08\/22\/book-review-the-new-mountaineer\/","title":{"rendered":"Book Review: The New Mountaineer"},"content":{"rendered":"

The New Mountaineer in Late Victorian Britain <\/em><\/a>by Alan McNee. Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave, 2016, \u00a366.99.<\/p>\n

Reviewed by Dr Douglas Small<\/a>, University of Glasgow<\/p>\n

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The figure of the late-Victorian mountaineer \u2013 stalwart, resolute, determinedly pursuing his ascent with ice-axe and Manila hemp rope \u2013 might at first seem an unlikely individual to be of interest to medical historians. Alan McNee\u2019s The New Mountaineer in Late Victorian Britain<\/em>, however, makes a compelling case for examining the world of fin-de-si\u00e8cle mountaineering in relation to the transformative medical and scientific discoveries of the last decades of the nineteenth century. A tightly-focussed and minutely-researched work, The New Mountaineer <\/em>documents the self-creation and articulation of a sporting community: the \u2018New Mountaineers\u2019 of the title, who emerged from older mountaineering traditions in response to \u2018profound changes that took place in [the culture of] British mountaineering in the latter part of the nineteenth century\u2019 (McNee, 1). While this gives the book an obvious appeal for historians of sport, McNee\u2019s examination also encompasses the medical, bodily, and scientific dimensions of the late-Victorian mountaineer, an individual who not only embraced new technological innovations, but who also embodied: \u2018a growing preoccupation with the physical basis of aesthetic sensation; a new interest in the physiology of effort and fatigue; and a characteristically Victorian drive to enumerate, codify, and classify\u2019 (2).<\/p>\n

The six chapters of The New Mountaineer<\/em> present a detailed picture of the alpine community of the late-Victorian and Edwardian periods. McNee\u2019s introductory chapter discusses the state of current research on the history of mountaineering, and provides a historical background to the appearance of the New Mountaineer by describing the Romantic and mid-Victorian \u2018Golden Age\u2019 of alpine ascents. Chapters 2 and 3, \u2018The Rise of the New Mountaineer\u2019 and \u2018Resisting the New Mountaineer,\u2019 describe tensions within the late-Victorian mountaineering community. Here, McNee examines the figure of the New Mountaineer, who was \u2018tough, daring, and technically competent… enjoyed an athletic challenge, was enthusiastic about modernity, and saw no contradiction in using the latest equipment and techniques to help him scale summits,\u2019 (31) alongside a conflicting strain of nostalgia for the emotional and aesthetic values of the Romantic period. Here, the New Mountaineer is presented as both a real and imaginary figure: \u2018On the one hand, he represented a genuine shift in the ethos and practice of mountaineering. At the same time, he was also a product of the collective imagination of Victorian mountaineers, representing anxiety about the direction their sport was taking and nostalgia for an imagined past.\u2019 (73) These two chapters present an intriguing insight into not only the broader ideologies of Victorian sports and sportsmanship, but also into Victorian receptions of Romanticism.<\/p>\n

Chapter 4 will be of particular interest to researchers of medical history. Entitled \u2018The Climbing Body\u2019 it moves elegantly between a number of related fin-de-si\u00e8cle physiological concepts, analysing the interplay between the sporting activities of mountaineers and contemporary investigations into nutrition, fatigue, the embodied nature of the brain, and the functioning of the senses. McNee\u2019s discussion of the tactile experience of mountaineering (and of mountaineers\u2019 own responses to the medical theorisation of their sport) nicely complements recent scholarship on the role of the senses in Victorian neurology and popular culture, such as Anne Stiles\u2019s Popular Fiction and Brain Science in the Late Nineteenth Century<\/em> <\/a>(2011) and Kimberly Cox\u2019s \u2018The Hand and the Mind, the Man and the Monster\u2019 <\/a>(2016). The chapter concludes with an examination of the ways in which New Mountaineering writers reconstructed nominally unpleasant experiences into vital and enjoyable parts of a \u2018complex of sensations\u2019 (132) that characterised their sport. Climbers annexed \u2018the chattering of teeth, fatigue, extreme cold, and precarious perches on knife-edge ridges\u2019 into \u2018a positive, confident account of the pleasures of the climbing body\u2019 (128-130). The following chapter takes up this exploration of the role of physical sensation in Victorian mountaineering and uses it to theorise a distinct form of sublime aesthetic within New Mountaineering discourse: \u2018The Haptic Sublime.\u2019 McNee explains that: \u2018The haptic sublime involves an encounter with mountain landscapes in which the human experiences close physical contact \u2013 sometimes painful and dangerous, sometimes exhilarating and satisfying, but always involving some kind of transcendent experience brought about through physical proximity to rock faces, ice walls, or snow slopes.\u2019 (151) Taken together, these two chapters make for a genuinely compelling examination of the body, physiology, and tactile sensation in such apparently disparate areas as extreme sports and Victorian aesthetic theory.<\/p>\n

The final chapter, \u2018\u201cTrippers\u201d and the New Mountain Landscape,\u2019 treats of the popularisation of mountaineering and alpine excursions in the period, as the hardy New Mountaineers found themselves beset by \u2013 from their point of view \u2013 an invasion of \u2018cockney travellers\u2019 (derisively referred to as ”Arrys’) and Thomas Cook \u2018trippers\u2019 (191). Not only does this chapter provide an excellent case-study for the history of tourism, it also shows off one of The New Mountaineer<\/em>\u2019s most consistent strengths: the in-depth and intimate nature of McNee\u2019s research. Entries taken from hotel visitors\u2019 books throughout the British Isles reveal the casual informality, and \u2018cross-class impertinence\u2019 (206) of both mountaineers and tourists. Seeing McNee uncover the minute details of interactions between different classes through the \u2018informal and potentially anonymous genre of the visitors\u2019 book\u2019 (205) is a genuinely enjoyable scholarly experience. The book concludes with a brief examination of twenty-first-century mountaineering discourses, and their indebtedness to the era of the New Mountaineer.<\/p>\n

Though most obvious in chapters 4 and 5, notions of physicality and embodiment are woven throughout the book. Time and again, McNee returns to the body of the fin-de-si\u00e8cle mountaineer, his (and occasionally her) physical sensations, exertions, and material integration into the mountainous landscape. The New Mountaineer<\/em> is also keenly attuned to the material culture of late-Victorian climbing, examining the changes to the design of ropes, maps, climbing gear, tents, and clothing throughout the period. Combined with its consideration of training regimens, exercise, and nutrition, what emerges from The New Mountaineer <\/em>overall is a compelling account of extreme sport as a site in which technology, science, and medicine combine to adapt the human body to a hostile environment. This, in turn, gives the work a (possibly surprising but undeniable) relevance to the disciplines of posthumanism and ecocriticism.<\/p>\n

By its own admission, The New Mountaineer <\/em>examines a sporting sub-culture that was self-contained and occasionally insular. McNee writes that: \u2018climbing literature in the latter part of the nineteenth century increasingly tended to speak to the community of climbers rather than to the wider reading public.\u2019 (140) It\u2019s to McNee\u2019s credit then, that he largely overcomes this insularity to produce a work that allows the New Mountaineer to speak to a diverse community of scholars.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The New Mountaineer in Late Victorian Britain by Alan McNee. Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave, 2016, \u00a366.99. Reviewed by Dr Douglas Small, University of Glasgow     The figure of the late-Victorian mountaineer \u2013 stalwart, resolute, determinedly pursuing his ascent with ice-axe and Manila hemp rope \u2013 might at first seem an unlikely individual to be of […]<\/p>\n

Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":317,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2965],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1260","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-book-reviews"],"yoast_head":"\nBook Review: The New Mountaineer - Medical Humanities<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/medical-humanities\/2017\/08\/22\/book-review-the-new-mountaineer\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Book Review: The New Mountaineer - Medical Humanities\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The New Mountaineer in Late Victorian Britain by Alan McNee. 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