{"id":37703,"date":"2016-10-28T14:22:51","date_gmt":"2016-10-28T13:22:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/bmj\/?p=37703"},"modified":"2016-10-28T14:29:05","modified_gmt":"2016-10-28T13:29:05","slug":"joanna-lyall-feeding-the-400","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/bmj\/2016\/10\/28\/joanna-lyall-feeding-the-400\/","title":{"rendered":"Joanna Lyall: Feeding the 400"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"foundling_hospital\"The comfort of food is not a concept readily accepted by institutions, be they hospitals, schools, or nursing homes.<\/p>\n

As well as financial constraints\u2014many NHS trusts in England feed inpatients for under \u00a310 a day\u2014there are the logistics of serving large numbers of people three meals a day.<\/p>\n

This is vividly brought home by Feeding the 400\u2014<\/em>the latest exhibition at the Foundling Museum.<\/p>\n

Opened in 1741 in London\u2019s Bloomsbury, the Foundling Hospital had looked after 27,000 children by the time it closed its doors on a site in Berkhamsted in 1953.
\nGiven up by their mothers when they were babies under one, the \u201cfoundlings\u201d were put out to wet nurses and foster parents, then admitted to the hospital between the ages of three and six, where they stayed\u00a0 until they were old enough to work.<\/p>\n

Once inside its walls they found a rigid regime<\/a>, which paid some attention to nutrition, but little to the enjoyment of food. All meals were eaten in silence, boys segregated from the girls, and Sunday lunch was marked by parties of society women coming to observe the children.<\/p>\n

\"sunday-at-the-foundling-hospital\"\u201cThe four hundred boys and girls go through the ceremony of dining (a sort of military evolution in this asylum)\u201d Charles Dickens wrote in 1853 after a visit to the hospital.<\/p>\n

The food was definitely better than that in the workhouse \u201cporridge made with milk not water,\u201d points out food historian, Jane Levi, curator of the exhibition. \u201cBut it was also a firm indicator of social class.\u00a0 The bread came from Harrods, but it was always brown for the foundlings and white for the staff because that was considered more refined,\u201d she said. Staff had a cooked breakfast on Sundays while the foundlings contented themselves with pinching bacon rinds from the leftovers.<\/p>\n

And good intentions did not always find their way to the long refectory tables. In 1813 it was discovered that a supplier had been delivering skimmed milk, rather than the full-fat ordered, for 20 years, costing the hospital \u00a3200 a year\u2014<\/em>the equivalent of \u00a312,000 today.<\/p>\n

In the early days meat for lunch featured only three days a week and supper consisted exclusively of bread. The hospital consumed 1,635 lbs of bread a week. Half an ounce of butter was allowed on Sundays. By 1937 meat or fish was included in lunch every day. But meal times were not relaxed occasions.<\/p>\n

\u201cEvery day was the same and a lot of the food was pretty ghastly\u2014<\/em>fatty and stodgy,\u201d says Lydia Carmichael, aged 84, who was placed in the care of the Foundling Hospital in 1932 when she two months old and left when she was 15. \u201cThere were no treats, or biscuits, and no birthday celebrations.\u00a0 You had to eat everything on your plate so we girls used to take the fat off the meat and hide it down our long knicker legs.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cTo this day I can\u2019t stand semolina or macaroni,\u201d she added. In contrast to the diet Lydia, a former manager of a GP practice, recalls the medical care as very good with frequent visits from GPs.\u00a0 A stay in the infirmary sometimes meant buttered toast.<\/p>\n

But if enjoyment was not one of the governors\u2019 concerns, equity was. One of the most poignant objects in the exhibition is a letter refusing a supplier\u2019s offer of broken biscuits\u2014<\/em>because it would be impossible to ensure equal shares for each child. At Christmas 1938 it was agreed each child could have a half pound box of Cadbury\u2019s chocolates.<\/p>\n

Clive Grindley, a retired insurance broker, aged 81, who lived at the Foundling Hospital in the 1940s, also remembers good, pre-NHS medical care, in the \u201cemotional desert\u201d that was life as a foundling. An outbreak of polio in 1948 was confined to one boy, a testament to the healthcare, he thinks.\u00a0 But the food was a different story: \u00a0\u00a0\u201cI don\u2019t think anyone was undernourished\u2014<\/em>I am over 5ft 11inches\u2014<\/em>\u201cand I only remember one fat boy,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

“But food was just something you got through as fast as possible. To this day my son says ‘Dad don\u2019t eat so fast, nobody is going to steal your food\u2019”<\/p>\n

Feeding the 400<\/strong>. The Foundling Museum, 40 Brunswick Square, London WC1N 1AZ, until January 8 2017. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10.00-17.00, Sunday 11.00-17.00. Closed Mondays.<\/em><\/p>\n

Photos<\/span>:\u00a0The boys’ dining room, Foundling Hospital Berkhamsted \u00a9 The Foundling Museum.<\/p>\n

Joseph Swain, Sunday at the Foundling Hospital, c1872 \u00a9 The Foundling Museum.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The comfort of food is not a concept readily accepted by institutions, be they hospitals, schools, or nursing homes. As well as financial constraints\u2014many NHS trusts in England feed inpatients […]<\/p>\n

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