{"id":5250,"date":"2013-09-04T18:31:00","date_gmt":"2013-09-04T17:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/bjsm\/?p=5250"},"modified":"2013-09-06T01:20:19","modified_gmt":"2013-09-06T00:20:19","slug":"everest-the-first-ascent-a-great-read-on-the-importance-of-an-exercise-physiologist","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/bjsm\/2013\/09\/04\/everest-the-first-ascent-a-great-read-on-the-importance-of-an-exercise-physiologist\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest – The First Ascent: A great read on the importance of an exercise physiologist"},"content":{"rendered":"

Book review by Chris Milne,\u00a0Sports Physician\u00a0Hamilton, New Zealand\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

*Please note, neither BJSM nor Chris are sponsored to endorse this book<\/em><\/p>\n

\"first_ascent1\"
Photo by Edmund Hillary, Source: encarta.msn.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ever wanted to know how important exercise physiologists can be?\u00a0 Then read Everest – The First Ascent<\/b><\/a>.\u00a0 Written by the daughter of Griffith Pugh, the physiologist who accompanied the successful 1953 expedition, it provides a unique perspective that should be of particular interest to the exercise physiologists and clinicians who read BJSM.<\/p>\n

Lest you think it is purely a laudatory account by an admiring daughter, I can assure you that it is not.\u00a0 The book opens with Harriet, the relatively estranged daughter, being present at a lecture given 10 years ago by Michael Ward, the Everest expedition doctor in 1953.\u00a0 By this stage Pugh was old and wheelchair bound. Harriet listened, transfixed, as she heard her father\u2019s contribution to the Everest expedition described in glowing terms.\u00a0 You will be too as you get into this book, he was truly the unsung hero of Everest.<\/p>\n

Prior to the 1953 expedition<\/strong> there had been numerous attempts on Everest but all had been failures due to a variety of reasons. The Swiss got close in 1952 with extensive use of supplementary oxygen and it Pugh\u2019s recognition of the importance of oxygen was possibly the most critical contribution to the success of Sir John Hunt\u2019s expedition in 1953.\u00a0 Hillary and Tenzing used oxygen at a rate of 3L\/min (they were originally budgeted 4L\/min but supplies ran short) and this undoubtedly helped them climb at a faster rate than would have been possible without oxygen.<\/p>\n

Pugh\u2019s contributions were not limited to oxygen alone, however.\u00a0 He also designed some particularly well-insulated climbing boots and double-layer air mattresses plus specially constructed tents to withstand the winds that prevail at high altitudes.\u00a0 He also perfected cookers that would function well up high mountains.<\/p>\n

However, Everest was not the end of it<\/strong> – rather, an important stepping stone in Pugh\u2019s career.\u00a0 Buoyed by the success of innovations in 1953 he went on to make a substantial contribution to high altitude medicine, with research carried out at the Silver Hut perched at high altitude on Everest; it has subsequently been relocated to Darjeeling, where it stands to this day. He realised the importance of keeping the scientists well fed and watered, and readers of the book will be impressed to see the range of food and drink that he had set up.<\/p>\n

Pugh was also much in demand once the 1968 Olympics were allocated to Mexico City.\u00a0 The events were held at an altitude of 8000 feet and his predictions regarding athlete performances were pretty much spot on.\u00a0 As he thought, the sprinters and jumpers would do well and there would be a progressive fall off in performance as running distances got longer and the athletes became more dependent on oxidative metabolism.\u00a0 He also made important contributions in research into hypothermia using cross-Channel swimmers as his subjects.<\/p>\n

On a personal basis<\/strong>, his daughter comments that her father could be \u201cremote and irascible\u201d and he frequently clashed with his superiors at the Medical Research Council. However, he had a few well-placed supporters who recognised his particular genius and enabled him to continue his work relatively unfettered by administrative demands.<\/p>\n

As a Kiwi reading the book I was intrigued by his relationship with Sir Edmund Hillary, a national icon in my country. The two men obviously saw things differently: Hillary was a climber in the stoic\/heroic tradition; Pugh was a practical scientist who also happened to be a pretty competent climber, having served as an instructor for the School of Mountain Warfare in the Lebanon. He also skied at the Olympics and, therefore, saw the mountaineers as fellow athletes rather than as lab rats.\u00a0 Even though there were tensions, the mutual respect between the two men shines through.<\/p>\n

So who should read this book?<\/b> Anyone with an interest in the practical application of sports science, i.e. every reader of BJSM.\u00a0 Also those who wish to see how a man could be rather neglected in his lifetime and yet gain true recognition for his work many years later.\u00a0 Serendipity is a wonderful thing and it is only due to the survival of Pugh\u2019s personal papers and his daughter\u2019s labour of love that we have got to read of Pugh\u2019s immense contribution.\u00a0 Truly an inspiring book.\u00a0 Read it.<\/p>\n

Title:\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Everest – The First Ascent<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Author:\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Harriet Tuckey<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Publisher: \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Random House, 400 pages<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Price:\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a320<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

ISBN:\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 9781846043499<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Book review by Chris Milne,\u00a0Sports Physician\u00a0Hamilton, New Zealand\u00a0 *Please note, neither BJSM nor Chris are sponsored to endorse this book Ever wanted to know how important exercise physiologists can be?\u00a0 Then read Everest – The First Ascent.\u00a0 Written by the daughter of Griffith Pugh, the physiologist who accompanied the successful 1953 expedition, it provides a […]<\/p>\n

Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,188],"tags":[2991,2992],"class_list":["post-5250","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","category-guest-posts","tag-altitude-medicine","tag-phys"],"yoast_head":"\nEverest - The First Ascent: A great read on the importance of an exercise physiologist - BJSM blog - social media's leading SEM voice<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blogs.bmj.com\/bjsm\/2013\/09\/04\/everest-the-first-ascent-a-great-read-on-the-importance-of-an-exercise-physiologist\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Everest - 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